Siberian Iris will naturalize and over time create large drifts of color. 

Why you should be growing Siberian Iris.

Siberian iris are valuable for the earliness of their bloom, their vigor and longevity. Once established you can count on Siberian iris to grow increase and bloom for years if not decades to come.

 Here in Vermont Siberian iris are one of the most prolific and rugged iris that I grow. And I can count on them blooming profusely every year as they have done for decades.

 Siberian iris will grow into large stands which are very weed resistant and when in bloom produce a stunning show.

They are very adaptable and will tolerate wet conditions very well and a certain degree of dry conditions as well.

While most people think of Siberian iris as coming in purples blues and whites there are actually a number of other colors and number of subtle hues and variation in those blues purples and whites that can make the flowers very interesting. Additionally there are some unusual Siberian iris flowers with ruffles and frills.

 Siberian iris foliage are is typically nice blue green shade and in my opinion a large stand has a very wonderful and strong visual effect.  Also typically Siberian iris with purple or blue flowers have pigmented buds which add to the interest of the plant and and then of course the bloom season.

I have Siberian iris growing all over my property in many different locations both dry and wet and strikingly I have a large number of plants that have   seeded in.

This is basic Iris terminology that is used to describe the various flower parts.

Siberian Iris have fine fibrous roots, because of that they are sensitive to drying out. And so one must be sure to keep the roots moist.

 I feel confident in stating that Siberian iris are strong growing and adaptive plants. There are a few aspects of Siberian iris cultivation and propagation that must be considered, the most significant in my mind is the root system is fine and fibrous and as such they are is sensitive to drying out therefore one must take care to keep the roots moist when dividing and transplanting and even a short period of time in the sun is very detrimental. A damp cloth or piece of burlap over the roots is helpful when transplanting.

Siberian Iris foliage has a great landscape value in itself. The blue-green foliage is almost always impeccable.

The other slight drawback of Siberian iris is that they take a little bit longer to recover after dividing or transplanting. I typically describe Siberian iris as sulkers and so the first year they just kind of sit there and act unhappy.

I think this old adage gardening adage applies 
"the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap"

However once they get established and begin to increase the clumps will just get larger and larger and produce more and more blooms.

The variation in even the blue and purple shades can make for some spectacular combinations and years ago we had large drifts of purple blue and white iris that were just stunning currently we have a smaller size patches but a much larger variety. Some of the newer varieties that we have are quite striking are quite exceptional. There is for instance a yellow Siberian iris that has very spectacular ruffles and the yellow fades to a pale yellow. Other colors include pink shades and pale lavender.

Siberian Iris exhibit a nice variation in blues, purples and white as well as pink and lavender shades as well as yellow.

There is also some interesting variation in flower size with some of the smaller flowered Siberian iris having a wonderful delicate almost butterfly like appearance. Siberian iris like a good rich soil and a fair amount of moisture under the circumstances you can expect good strong growth and a lot of bloom.

Siberian Iris can naturalize and coexist with other plants quite well.

That being said as I mentioned I have Siberian iris growing all over my property in sandy, clay, wet, dry add a lot of marginal growing areas. And all the iris in these various locations grow and bloom amazingly well.

So the most important aspect of growing and cultivating Siberian iris is to be sure to care for them while they are getting established. This means making sure that the roots stay moist before you plant them and then keep them well watered while they are getting established. Of course there is a balance and I expect that you could water even Siberian iris too much.

One last thing to keep in mind in my experience, here in Vermont one must take care too when dividing Siberian iris to have the divisions relatively large, this ensures or at the very least increases the chance that the divided clumps will reestablish and grow. Tiny divisions of Siberian iris frequently fail and are not likely to survive a winter if divided and transplanted in the season late season.

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We should open late May early June 2021 for walk-in sales or visits


We have plenty of room for social distancing, hand sanitizers at most tables and a sink and soap for washing hands.

We will were masks while interacting with customers, but do not wear masks while outside working/digging.

Most orders can be dug in about 10 minutes.

 


You can email us @ This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. to pre order, we'll confirm and can have you plants all dug and ready to go

We accept all major credit cards, checks and of course cash.

 


 We welcome visitors as there is lots of room to walk around and explore and there are numerous benches, chairs and tables to sit and enjoy the gardens.


The usual protocol for ordering is to walk around the field and note what plants your are interested in. Come to the "Garden House" and give us your list.

We will look them up on our computer, determine if they are available and their price. Then once a decision has been made, label/tags are made for each plant and then the plants are dug, and packed in plastic bags.

I am constantly trying new ways to start seeds or get bigger plants for a season. Below is my basic seed starting setup. I use LED lights and flats of various cell (pot) size. I find that setting newly planted flats on the top provides a little bit of heat for the flats and helps increase germination. I do cover those flats with a clear cover to reduce drying out. I'll use overturned flats and/or milk crates to raise the flats up closer to the lights.

Larger Basil and Pepper plants are at the bottom

Certain large seeded plants I start right in larger pots as that gives them plenty of room to grow on without transplanting.

In the smaller 98 count flats, I do rows of seeds and use the labels to demarcate how much for each row.

 

I have been starting lettuce in the 98 flats and then once they fill out I transplant them to window boxes to grow on.

I've discovered that though the lettuce seedlings start out leggy and spindly, as they grow they fill in nicely.

 

 

It's hard to get  large vigorous pepper plants unless they are started very early. I'm trying this technique.

I expect that I'll be able to grow these plants in these small "cells" for a few more weeks. You can

see that one of the smaller peppers are the Habanero peppers, they are notoriously slow to grow.

Spilanthes is also called "Toothache plant", as it has a slight numbing property.

It is also interesting to note that Basil's first leaves have a distinct "D" shape to them.

 

These tomato plants were started February 20, 2020. Hopefully I'll be able to keep sizing them up.

If they get too root bound they won't grow as well when planted out.

 

Half the fun of growing things from seed is to try new things.

I've started some watermelons extra early to see how big I can get the vines before planting them out.

I'm also going to see how these Nasturtiums do in containers. These are some unusual colors that will be fun to try.